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Heavens Peak in the clouds |
This hike over the weekend did not lead to a summit, but it was a great hike and weekend up in Glacier National Park. Lars works in the chalet over the summers and he invited me up to be part of the group that goes up first and opens the chalet, cleans it out, and shovels snow so there is less work when the chalet really opens for the season.
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Lots of snow with more coming down |
We drove past the closure at Avalanche on Friday morning and drove up to the Loop. It always feels special being on the Going-to-the-Sun Road before it is opened over the pass, whether it is by vehicle (with permission), bike, or on foot. It feels like you are seeing the true Glacier before that section of it gets overrun by millions of tourists in just a 2-3 month period.
At the Loop, we packed up, geared up for wet weather, shouldered our packs, and started hiking up the trail. The forecast for the weekend was not great and we expected rain and maybe some snow up at the chalet. Despite some rain during the drive, the hike started out under overcast but dry skies. I always remind myself how many miserable hikers I see going up to the chalet late on hot, sunny afternoons when I'm hiking down after finishing hiking the Highline, and with that in mind, a cool, overcast day feels incredible. A pleasant discovery on the way up was that the trail crew had already been through and cut the trees up to snow line. I had not looked forward to walking over a couple hundred trees and the trail being clear made our hike up much easier.
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Lars, Luke, and Jake digging for the water |
We stopped often to take in the views and to keep everyone together (there were 12 of us) and by the time we had stopped at the second switchback, it had started raining. We could see it coming and knew it was going to hit us, and by this point, we could tell it was going to hit us hard. We decided to stop in the trees and take cover while we ate a quick bite of food. Before getting to the trees the downpour started and I stopped to put on my rain gear. Once I caught up with the group in the unburned trees everyone was eating and crowded under sub-alpine fir. I ate quickly and everyone started back up the trail as it was getting cold just standing there.
We hiked the rest of the way through snow. The green trees help to keep the snow protected from the sun and they may even allow the snow to pile up higher than out in the burn. Either way, in the trees it went from no snow to 5-10 foot drifts and was possibly deeper in spots. Despite the deep snow the trail was not too difficult to follow as there are orange, ski markers on the trees every so often that helped to keep us on track. Eventually we made it to the point where the trail wraps around the southern side of the hill the chalet is on and we just cut straight up the snowy hill to the front door of the chalet.
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Looking toward Logan Pass |
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Looking toward Vulture from Sunset Ridge |
Everyone shivered a bit under the porch as we waited for the shutters on the door to be taken off and the door unlocked so we could get inside. Then just a few went in with masks in case the mice had made a huge mess and the danger of hantavirus was too great. Fortunately the word was sent out that it was not too much of a mess and we all piled in. We took the shutters off two windows and opened the windows on opposite sides of the room, and with the open door this allowed the main room to be aired out just in case.
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Mount Grinnell from the east side of Swiftcurrent Pass |
It was quite cold in the room before the door and two windows were opened and a fire was one of the first things we worked on. As the fire grew and started sending warmth into the room we started doing more to make the place liveable for the weekend. The kitchen was cleaned and wiped down of all mouse droppings as were the tables and seats out in the main room where we would be eating. While the inside was being readied, others were outside digging snow in the spots that needed it to allow access in and out of key doors and up to the rooms where we would be sleeping.
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Chain of lakes in the Swiftcurrent Valley |
Lars said he thought there was less snow than there had been in years past at least around the chalet. Snow was shoveled quickly and before long there wasn't really more to do. We had gotten into the rooms where we were going to sleep and wiped them down, although the small mess we found Lars said was from chipmunks and not mice. After we finished we spent time relaxing and drying and warming up. Lars and another guy who works there, Luke, wanted to go see the water source and see how much we would need to dig for it the next day. Jake and I went along.
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Moss campion on the east side |
There was a lot of snow and we walked down to where the water spigot was. We stood there on the snow wondering where it was and how much snow actually covered it. As Luke and Lars were most familiar with its location, Jake and I let them do the deciding where to find it. Lars made on guess and spot on the snow and Luke made another. Jokingly I asked Jake what he thought--he had never been up there. He went and put an "X" on the snow. As we were ahead of schedule we didn't need to start shoveling that afternoon, but Luke really wanted just to check it out a bit.
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Granite Park Chalet in a spot of sunshine |
Luke and Lars shoveled mostly, starting pretty much where Jake had left his mark. I took the big chunks of snow thrown out of the hole and started making a snow cairn, which turned into a snow wall. Eventually Jake jumped in and as he was digging asked how much anyone would give him if he hit the spigot. Not five minutes later we heard a ting. He had broken through a soft layer of snow and had hit something. His spot had been right on and he was the one to hit it. He uncovered part of the box near the pipe and then I asked--feeling guilty for not digging yet--to be let in to dig a bit. I uncovered more and found the actual pipe that was spouting out quite a flow of water. We had done it. We had finished pretty much everything needed in the whole weekend on the first day.
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Grizzly bear snow sculpture made by Cole, Matt, and Mike |
We went back up to the chalet and all enjoyed a hearty pasta dinner. After eating, Luke, Dan, Matt, and I went back out and walked over to Sunset Ridge. The clouds had been clearing a bit and we wanted to look north and hopefully see some wildlife, bears namely. We made it to the ridge and it was dry on the rocks. There we sat and took in the views as we looked for wildlife. Before we left we found some tracks I believed to be coyote that were heading north. We followed them a bit until the snow became too steep and looked for it but never saw it. Eventually we turned back to the chalet for the evening.
The next morning we were up for breakfast and it was cloudy again. It had rained through much of the night. The snow that had fallen the day before was very wet and starting to melt. Throughout the day we did little odd jobs around the chalet and hung out around the fire. There was a little more shoveling that took place, but it was also finished quickly.
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Granite Park Chalet |
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In a cloud the third day, Chalet third building on far right |
In the afternoon, Luke, Dan, and I went out for a hike. It was cloudy and sometimes it would lift a bit and then it would drop and we would be in the cloud and have very limited visibility. We decided to go out anyway. I really thought perhaps we could find some animals if we were lucky. At first we started toward Swiftcurrent Pass. Then we found more canine tracks. I thought they were the same coyote tracks we had seen from the day before, but Luke thought they looked fresher than our tracks did from the day before. We followed them toward Sunset Ridge. I was pretty certain they were the same, but it was just fun being out and traveling through the snow.
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Chalet in a cloud |
Eventually Luke was ahead of Dan and me and said he thought the tracks now looked fainter and probably were the same from the day before. I said that since we were so close to the ridge we should head out to it and see if we can see north. We did and we couldn't see north. We took it all in for a bit and then decided to carry on with our original plan to go up toward Swiftcurrent Pass.
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Water pipe |
Travel was very easy heading up the main drainage toward the pass. I had forgotten how close the pass was and we were there in no time. The trail and the large cairn on the pass were clear of snow and we stood there, on the Divide, for a bit. Luke really wanted to see if it was clear on the east side so we headed down a bit. We ran into some soft snow and stopped. We could see the edge and then it would get covered by a cloud. We stood there for a bit and contemplated if we should go on. Just as we were about to head back over the pass to the chalet we decided to go a bit further to the rocks we could see in and out of the clouds.
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Back of Trails' Cabin |
We walked that way and found a different ridge that was clear of snow. From here we could see that it was mostly clear on the east. There we could see ridge after ridge, clear of snow and in the sun heading east. We even caught glimpses of Mount Grinnell and the Swiftcurrent Glacier. We could see down to the chain of lakes that led out the Swiftcurrent Valley toward Many Glacier. We sat there for awhile using binoculars to look for animals. All we saw was one snowboarder and his friend--not snowboarding or skiing--as he hiked up for another run below the headwall and glacier. It was a bit disappointing to just see humans and no wildlife, but we felt good they didn't see us and we were much higher than they were.
Eventually we headed back over the pass and down to the chalet, where we had another nice dinner and enjoyed the evening before going to bed.
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Front of Trails' Cabin |
The next morning we cleaned up and readied ourselves and the chalet for our departure. While some were still in bed I headed down to the Trails' Cabin to check it out. The clouds seemed thicker than they had been the whole weekend. I wanted to see a bear but knew that if I did it meant we were very close to one another. The cabin still had snow up to the roof in the back and had tons of snow around it. It was fun to see the place I had spent many nights so covered in snow and still looking so much like winter.
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Back out of the snow |
I headed back and helped to clean up and close down the chalet until someone else would be back up. Then we headed back down the trail. It was a quick section as we slid down the snow to the burn, where we came out of the snow. Even then the trail was a quick descent back to the cars. We thought the clouds would clear as we were leaving, but thankfully they didn't. We didn't get rained on, but it was overcast and we couldn't see the summits of the peaks. When we made it to the Loop there were many bikers on the road. This reminded me that it was a Sunday. On the way back to the gate at Avalanche we passed many more bikers, most of them giving us dirty looks for being in vehicles. It had been a great weekend in Glacier National Park.